The (Asian) Education of Miss 爱美丽

In his excellent book Oracle Bones, Peter Hessler profiles Polat, who represents one of China’s most disenfranchised minority groups, the Uighars. As a minority from the Northwest provice of Xinjiang, Polat, who speaks at least six languages, acts as a middleman, both literal and figurative, for the diverse ethnic groups that congregate in the capital city (Turks, Russians, Uzbeks, Han Chinese, Americans, etc.) He also happens to be one of Hessler’s best friends in Beijing.  

Before I became emotionally invested in Hessler’s memorable character and the plight he represents in modern China, though, I invested some time and love in Uighar food. On the last day of my trip to Beijing, John took me to a favorite local spot of his, Cresent Moon, which happened to have been named Beijing’s best ethnic restaurant. (Did you know that Sustainable?) Blending middle eastern and Chinese palates, Uighar food brings traditionally unrelated food together in really beautiful ways. (Which is why I insisted we find a Uighar restaurant in Shanghai. Laurie and Caitlin loved it as well.)

Spiced lamb kebabs

Must-tries: Lamb skewers (kebabs), perfectly al dente hand-pulled noodles in a tomato-red pepper sauce (almost like cacciatore), sesame-covered naan-like bread, cold cucumber and tomato salad, homemade YOGURT, Sinkiang black beer, and a sweet milk and black tea. Uighar restaurants are always uber-hygienic to boot (thank you, pillars of Islam).

Though we won’t be going as far north or west as Xinjiang, my upcoming trip to Gansu province will still get us in the general vicinity. Will we be so lucky as to find Uighar food way the hell out in Zhangye, Inner Mongolia? I can only hope. Despite their apparent affinity for isolated, cold-weather exports as seen in today’s fashion, the same cannot be said for the food; there are no Uighar restaurants to speak of in HK… yet.)